This coming June 2nd Setdart presents at auction a fine selection of Hermès handbags from the 1950s. Beyond their aesthetic appeal, these pieces constitute authentic historical testimonies of a crucial moment in the evolution of European luxury design. In an era in which collecting intersects with investment, these bags not only represent an exceptional visual refinement, but also a cultural and economic asset of the first order.
A firm that exudes craft, sobriety and permanence.
Founded in 1837 as a saddlery workshop, Hermès consolidated its prestige through a discourse centered on craftsmanship excellence, formal discretion and durability. In the 1950s, the firm reached one of its high points: a production still marked by the equestrian tradition, but reinterpreted from the codes of post-war modernity.
In contrast to other maisons that opted for decorative opulence, Hermès opted for a restrained, almost architectural design that transformed the feminine handbag into a functional sculpture. This approach translates into pure lines, balanced volumes, subtle hardware and noble materials treated with meticulous coherence.
An unrepeatable selection: rarity, coherence and noble origin
The lots 65, 66, 67, 68, 77, 93, 17 and 18 that Setdart presents in this auction make up a set of great formal cohesion and an exceptional interest for enlightened collectors. The private provenance, the excellent state of conservation and, in some cases, the presence of original accessories add a documentary and traceability value that is not usually found on the secondary market.
These pieces show the typological repertoire of Hermès in the decade: rigid bags with trapezoidal structure, iconic metal clasps (the “H”, buckles shaped like a stirrup or padlock), box calf, crocodile, lizard or canvas leather combined with black leather, all worked with a precision that denotes the work of a single craftsman per piece, as dictated by the savoir-faire of the firm.
Hermès: the most valued brand in the handbag market
In addressing the real value of these pieces, it is crucial to consider not only their design and age, but also the unique position of Hermès in the international luxury market. Today, no other leather goods manufacturer achieves the levels of revalorization, exclusivity and cultural prestige that Hermès has built over more than a century.
Several market research studies -such as those conducted by Art Market Research or platforms such as Baghunter and The RealReal– find that Hermès models, especially vintage and limited edition models, outperform traditional assets such as gold or contemporary art in terms of profitability. Their value in auctions has experienced sustained increases, the most paradigmatic case being that of the Birkin or Kelly bags, whose resale price can reach three or four times the original price.
This revaluation is not a speculative phenomenon: it is the result of a production strategy that limits supply, preserves uncompromising craftsmanship and avoids commercial erosion of the brand. Added to this is the fact that Hermès has been able to build a cultural symbol that transcends fashions and economic cycles making its pieces true vehicles of heritage.
The handbag as a time capsule and language form
Hermès bags of this period can be understood as mobile micro-architectures. The way in which their volumes are articulated, the logic of closures and assemblies, the relationship between texture and function, tell us of an object that brings together the sculptural and the utilitarian in perfect symbiosis. They are pieces that do not age: they mature.
In this sense, these bags not only represented a stylistic transition (from ornament to pure form), but also a redefinition of status: discreet, silent, yet deeply codified. To acquire an Hermès from the 1950s is to assume possession of an object that doesn’t need to shout to be heard.
Investment, legacy and material culture
In this auction, Setdart proposes a rendezvous with luxury understood as permanence. In a context where the ephemeral and the visible often set the pace of consumption, these Hermès bags bring us back to the essential luxury: that of time invested in doing things well, that of contained beauty, that of the form that survives change.
For those who seek not only to acquire an accessory, but alsoa piece of history, brand identity and cultural capital, this selection represents an opportunity as exceptional as it is rare.
On June 2, at Setdart, Hermès returns to what it has always been: a statement of excellence.
